Four Seasons Claypot Rice
I first heard of the Four Seasons Claypot Rice restaurant after watching an episode about Hong Kong on No Reservations [Watch this clip from Youtube, the segment about this eatery appears on the 3:31 mark - Ed.]. I wanted a change from the usual dimsum and noodles and so I promised to look for this restaurant on my next visit to the HKSAR.
Anthony Bourdain’s companion blogger Cha Xiu Bao said that claypot rice was a traditional winter meal, but from the many reviews that I’ve seen people eat it year-round anyway. So on one rainy June night I found myself at the doorstep of this restaurant.
What is claypot rice? It is
“… usually a dinner dish in the southern regions of China, Singapore and Malaysia. It is typically served with Chinese sausage and vegetables. More often than not, the rice is cooked in the claypot first and cooked ingredients like diced chicken and Chinese sausage are added in later. Traditionally, the cooking is done over a charcoal stove, giving the dish a distinctive flavour.”
As you can see, this restaurant easily becomes full of diners, so be prepared to share a table with someone else, like I did with a couple who were certainly not bashful about their public displays of affection.
This is the menu posted outside of the Four Seasons Claypot Restaurant. Don’t worry, once you find your place inside, the staff will give you an English-language menu on request, but mind you they don’t speak English themselves. Don’t be surprised that when you place your order they will point to another part of the menu and try to convince you to order some vegetables – a big pot of it.
Anyway, I ordered chicken and Chinese sausage claypot rice. Drinks? You have to buy it from a store just across at Hi Lung Lane. Just be advised that the lady proprietor could get a little, um, cranky.
In order to make this dish as savory as possible, open the lid of the pot as soon as it is delivered to your table. Use a handkerchief or wadded tissue paper to grasp the knob as it is quite hot. Then take the nearby bottle of soy sauce and pour a generous dollop on top of the rice. Don’t worry, the sauce isn’t as salty as you think it is. Mix everything together thoroughly and quickly, then cover the pot with the lid for a minute or so.
Then open it up, take your chopsticks, and eat. Yes it was very delicious, including the nearly burnt-out grains at the bottom of the pot – the tutong, in other words.
Apparently, claypot rice isn’t the only specialty of the house. This is deep-fried oyster pancake. Very, very good and not oily at all.
After your dinner, why don’t you walk off what you ate and amble over literally next door to Temple Street and its fabled night market? Just a few steps to the south-southeast, at the corner of Public Square Street is another Hong Kong culinary landmark: the Mido Cafe.
Here are the directions to the Four Seasons Claypot Rice restaurant: take the MTR to the Yau Ma Tei station and take Exit C. This exit is at the corner of Nathan Road and Man Ming Lane. Make your way to the latter street. A few steps will then take you to the corner of Man Ming Lane and Arthur Street. Turn left at the latter street and walk a few meters next: you won’t miss this restaurant.
Its exact address is 46-58 Arthur Street. Cash only.
In Malaysia claypot rice is standard hawker fare. Marinated chicken meat, pieces of Chinese sausage and some salted fish is usually added into the pot at some stage, with soy sauce (dark and light) for flavour. Some chopped spring onions are added on top for garnishing. This makes a wonderful meal with a serving of steamed soup (different recipes available).
The claypot rice costs about RM5.00 per pax. The soup’s about RM3.50 – RM4.00 per serving.
I heard as much, Bayi. This restaurant also serves salted fish claypot rice, so it’s something to look forward to on my next trip to Hong Kong.
Or on my first to KL?
It was this entry on Four Season’s claypot rice that convinced me to try it out during a visit to HK less than 3 weeks ago. I came at around 8PM and boy, I did not expect the long lines! Instantly, I knew the place was servng something special. Anyway, you are correct, it was good even without the soy sauce. I only put soy sauce on one-half of the claypot rice as I was trying to tone down salt intake. A rule of thumb in HK (and everywhere else), eat in places teeming with people, preferably locals. It is hard to go wrong this way. There are some restaurants and tea houses in HK without english menus. Not to worry, just point and eat!! For ths non-adventurous, you can always go to Maxims and Cafe de Coral, which I also enjoy. Cheers!
Resty, I’m glad you liked this restaurant and found my review useful!
[...] led Mrs. Unlawyer and our friends to what I thought would be a leisurely Sunday lunch at the Four Seasons Claypot Rice restaurant on Arthur Street in Yau Ma Tei. Unfortunately, we were disappointed to find out that it [...]